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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.